British mountaineer, explorer, adventurer and high altitude expert Ian 'Ted' Atkins (60) died in a fall on 20th August, 2018 while descending from Monte Civetta (3220m) in the Dolomites, Italy. He climbed the peak with his friend Nev Taylor. In the same day, South Tyrolean mountain guide Philipp Angelo (36) died in a mountain accident on the French side of the Mont Blanc massif. He was on his solo ascent of the North Face (via Cassin route at the Walker Spur) of the Grandes Jorasses. He fell from a height of between 3600m and 3800m and died on the spot.
Ian Atkins (Left) and Philipp Angelo (Right)
Atkins was an AeroSystems engineer and a member of the Royal Air Force (RAF) Mountain Rescue Service. He led the Everest North Ridge Expedition in 2001. The expedition was successful. That was the first summit of Everest by an RAF team. He made a number of ascents in the Himalayas, including Everest (2004), Makalu (2008), Kangchenjunga (2011), Lhotse (2012), Ama Dablam (2016). Ama Dablam was unique because he set a world record by parachuted into the Base Camp then went onto climb the mountain. He also set a world record for the highest boat ride for his glacial lake paddle at 6300m below Everest.
Atkins also led the first RAF team up the North Face of the Eiger. He then explored remote areas in Antarctica and worked as a cartographer. He made 28 first ascents of mountains in Antarctica. After leaving the RAF, Atkins started a business selling bottled oxygen in the Himalayas called "Topout Oxygeneering". Atkins invented a new oxygen cylinder that had a new kind of delivery system.
Philipp Angelo was a skilled and experienced mountain guide. He climbed and established several new routes such as L'Onda di Hokusai on the North East Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites, Ragni Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy, Central Pillar of Frêney, a free solo of the Bonatti Oggioni route at Pilier Rouge du Brouillard, a free solo of the Gervasutti Pillar on Mont Blanc du Tacul etc.
Rest in peace, Ian and Philipp.
Photo Courtesy: Ian Atkins and Philipp Angelo archive
