Austrian alpinists David Lama (28) and Hansjörg Auer (35) with American alpinist Jess Roskelley (36) went missing on 17th April, 2019 while on an expedition on Howse Peak (3295m) in the Canadian Rockies. It was reported by Parks Canada Officials that they could have been swept down in an avalanche. Search and rescue efforts were started but proved futile. Their bodies were recovered on Sunday, 21st April, 2019.
Parks Canada Officials issued a statement.
This triple tragedy came as a shock to the international mountaineering world. Jess Roskelley's family released this statement about the tragedy.
The world mourns their sudden demise.
2009 - Mt. Asan (4230m) in Kyrgyzstan, summited via Timofeev Route, with Swiss climbers Giovanni Quirici, Stephan Siegrist, and Nina Caprez. First free ascent via this route.
2010 - Monte Brento in Italy, summited via a route named Brento Centro (8b), with Jorg Verhoeven.
2011 - Cerro Kishtwar (6155m) in Kashmir Himalaya, summited via a new route on NW Ridge, with Denis Burdet, Stephan Siegrist and Robert Frost. They named the route as Yoniverse.
2012 - Cerro Torre (3128m), free solo ascent via SE Ridge AKA Compressor Route. First free solo climb of this route.
2012 - Trango Tower (6286m), via a route named Eternal Flame and Chogolisa (7668m), summited with Peter Ortner.
2013 - Moose's Tooth (3150m) in Alaska, summited via a route named Bird of Prey on the East Face, with Dani Arnold.
2013 - Sagwand in Tyrol, summited via a route named Schiefer Riss, with Hansjörg Auer and Peter Ortner. First Winter ascent of Sagwand.
2014 - Masherbrum (7821m), attempted via NE Face, with Hansjörg Auer and Peter Ortner.
2015 - Lunag Ri (6895m*), attempted via W Ridge, with Conrad Anker, Martin Hanslmayr and Melchior (Menk) Rufibach. David reached 6500m.
2015 - In the Baatara Gorge, Lebanon, climbed a new route, named Avataara (9a).
2016 - Annapurna III (7555m), attempted via SE Ridge, with Hansjörg Auer, Alex Blumel (Alexander Bluemel), Martin Hanslmayr and Melchior (Menk) Rufibach. David reached 6500m.
2016 - Lunag Ri (6895m*), attempted via W Ridge, with Conrad Anker. David reached 5700m. In a solo attempt via W Face-NW Ridge, David reached 6600m.
2018 - Lunag Ri (6895m*), solo ascent via W Ridge. First ascent of the peak.
- David Lama was the son of a Nepali father and an Austrian mother.
- In 1998, at the age of 8, David placed second at his very first climbing competition, the Hohe Munde Cup in Telfs, Tyrol.
- In 1999, David won the kid's competition at the unofficial Austrian championship, the ÖAV Junior Cup. At the age of 9, he climbed Beach Boys in Massone, Italy, his first 7b.
- In 2000, he won 6 more climbing climbing competitions. He climbed redpoint of the Kindergarden in Slovenia, a route with grade 8a. He became the youngest person to climb this grade.
- In 2002, he secured first place in the Rock Master Junior competition.
- In 2003, he won 11 more climbing competitions. At the age of 12, he climbed Hale Bopp, his first 8b+.
- In 2004, he competed at the European Youth Cup and the Youth World Championship and won all competitions. He climbed his first 8c at the age of 14.
- In 2005, he became a Junior World Champion for the second time.
- In 2006, at the age of 15, he was allowed to enter the adult World Cup. He was placed second in his first World Cup competition, then won the next one and become the youngest World Cup winner in history.
- In 2008, he became the IFSC World Cup champion in both lead climbing and bouldering.
- David authored two books.
"High: Genial unterwegs an Berg und Fels"
"Free: Der Cerro Torre, das Unmögliche und ich"
- The Film, "Walk the Line", documented the two successive attempts on Lunag Ri by David Lama and Conrad Anker.
- The Film, "Cerro Torre - a snowball's chance in hell", documented David's free ascent of Cerro Torre.
"Success, to me, doesn't primarily mean reaching the summit, but rather living up to my own expectations."
"What matters to me is that I can stand behind my decisions and actions."
"Every mountaineer wants to leave something behind, and at the same time, he has the responsibility to respect what he inherits."
2007 - Marmolada in the Dolomites, Italy, summited via a route named Fish route on the South Face. First free solo climb of this route.
2013 - Kunyang Chhish East (7400m), summited via SW Face, with Simon Anthamatten and Matthias Auer. First Ascent of the peak.
2014 - Masherbrum (7821m), attempted via NE Face, with David Lama and Peter Ortner.
2015 - Nilgiri South (6839m), summited via S Face (up) and SW Ridge (down), with Alex Blumel (Alexander Bluemel), and Gerry Fiegl (Gerhard Fiegl). First ascent of the South Face. First ascent of the Southeastern "Nilgiri Spire" (6780m) peak. First traverse of both peaks.
2016 - Annapurna III (7555m), attempted via SE Ridge, with David Lama, Alex Blumel (Alexander Bluemel), Martin Hanslmayr and Melchior (Menk) Rufibach. Hansjörg reached 6500m.
2016 - Gimmigela Chuli East (7007m), summited via N Face, with Alex Blumel (Alexander Bluemel). First ascent of the North Face.
2018 - Lupghar Sar West (7157m), solo ascent. First ascent of the peak.
2018 - Unknown peak (6050m) in Northern Indian Himalaya, summited via SE Face, with Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher. First ascent of the peak.
- In his childhood, Hansjörg suffered from anorexia, an eating disorder.
- Hansjörg authored the book "SÜDWAND".
- Hansjörg established many new routes in Big Wall Climbing.
"Alpinism is a passion always swinging between sanity and insanity. I love playing passion."
"How to access towards an idea can make the difference. I'm am not climbing better than my forerunners."
2003 - Everest (8848m), summited via N Col-NE Ridge, with his father John Roskelley, Pasang Gelu Sherpa and Pemba Tenji Sherpa.
2005 - Gaurishankar (7135m), attempted via NE Ridge, with John Roskelley. Both of them reached 5450m.
2012 - Mt. Wake, summited via new route on South Face, with John Frieh, they named the route The Cook Inlet.
2013 - Citadel, summited via new route on East Face, with Ben Erdmann and Kristoffer Szilas, they named the route Hypa Zypa Couloir.
2014 - West Witches Tit, summited via new route on West Ridge, with John Frieh.
2017 - Mt. Huntington, traverse via South Ridge, with Clint Helander.
2018 - Chhota Bhai (6321m) and Changi Tower 2 (6250m), summited with Kurt Ross and Nelson Neirinck.
- Jess Roskelley was the son of legendary American mountaineer John Roskelley.
- In 2003, at the age of 20, with his father John, Jess summited Everest, becaming the youngest American to do so.
- Though, John summited Everest on his third attempt, Jess did so on his first.
- Jess began his climbing career as guide on Mt. Rainier (4392m) and by the age of 20 he reached the summit of the mountain 35 times.
"I believe you are a product of your environment."
"Mountains help me navigate what is most important to me. They balance the chaos that is regular life. Balance is what I strive to accomplish with climbing - a balance of life, love and mountains. Alpine climbing is a life long activity. I live and breath it."
David dedicated his life to the mountains and his passion for climbing and alpinism shaped and accompanied our family. He always followed his own path and lived his dream. We will accept what now happened as a part of that.
We appreciate the numerous positive words and thoughts from near and far. Please understand that there will be no further comments from our side. We ask you to remember David for his zest for life, his enthusiasm and with a view towards his beloved mountains.
Our thoughts are with Hansjörg's and Jess' family
Claudia & Rinzi Lama
"Climbing and mountaineering on the borderline of possible is a game – a risky game… but one that I cannot live without. The game is simple, the rules always the same. The present moment counts for everything. I want to do things that push me. With all my heart or not at all. The more intense it is, the more enriching it is, and the stronger the feeling that I am heading in the right direction.
I do however begin to ponder. Especially when I am injured or after a close call. I think about my friends. I think about what it would be like if one day I didn't return, if I had to pay the price for the mountains.
And yet I cannot resist to take on the challenge time after time. I will never stop searching because what I find fascinates me every time I head out."
Thank you to all for your kind words.
Our thoughts are with the families and friends of David and Jess.
"Mountains help me navigate what is most important to me. They balance the chaos that is regular life. Balance is what I strive to accomplish in climbing - a balance of life, love and mountains. Alpine climbing is a life-long commitment. I live and breathe it." - Jess Roskelley
The response we've received from the climbing community and the myriad of family, friends, acquaintances and The North Face team has been unbelievable. Our deepest condolences go out to the families of David Lama and Hansjörg Auer. Jess looked up to the two of them and was so excited to climb with them.
"By endurance, we conquer."
Love Alli, John, Joyce, Jordan and Dawn Roskelley
We choose to play by the rules of the mountains because they are our calling. We accept the loss that strikes unaware in return for the bonds of friendship created by experiencing life in the majesty of nature. The intensity of the high alpine, guarded by wind & snow and ruled by gravity, is where we find these moments that define us as people. It is never easy to lose loved ones, particularly those with so much life to live.
My heart goes out to the parents of Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley with the loss of their sons.
With empathy for the families, loved ones, friends and our community.
Searching for the light through the dark today as our mountain tribe lost some beloved members of the family. Reflecting on how fortunate we are to have witnessed and felt the greatness, humanity and light they shared with us all. With my deepest condolences to the families and loved ones of @jessroskelley @hansjoergauer and @davidlama_official. Your lights shine on...
Super bummed to hear about to loss of @davidlama_official, @hansjoergauer, and @jessroskelley. There's really no other way to put it. Three of the best alpinists in the world lost in one unfortunate accident. Condolences to the families and the whole community of climbers who've tied in with each of them.
It was a heart wrenching day in the alpine community. I never got to climb with @davidlama_official @jessroskelley @hansjoergauer but many of my teammates here on Everest did. And I, like so many of us, have been inspired as their climbs pushed our sport forward, and their goodness permeated our climbing community. There was nothing to do today but light butter lamps in blessing, share stories, and be good to each other. Love and energy to their families, friends and teammates
To die, you have to be born and that could be even enough.
But there are people who besides being born decide to grow up choosing that they will live intensely, spending all their energy to give substance to their dreams and even more, to transform their passion and their dreams as an aim of their existence and subsistence.
They have sought and found their completeness by taking this decision, their happiness, their balance and the reason for which it is worth waking up every morning and lying down tired, happy and motivated in the evening.
No man would ever give up happiness and no mountaineer would ever stop going to the mountains, in this oasis of freedom, to please those who do not understand and would like you to be at home, as a spectator. Every climber always does everything possible to protect the precious gift of life, every foresight is directed primarily to his own safety and only in second place, to action. But man is part of Nature, he is not its' ruler and creator and accepts from the beginning that skill, experience, tricks, and prudence may not be enough to cancel the risks and avoid even the worst. But we can decide whether to exist only to live, or to live trying to make sense of the gift and the luck of having existed.
I lose three friends, the world loses three protagonists and mentors of a respectful, healthy life with a smile.
They were living the path of their existence in their own way. Crying their passing is human and necessary, tears often furrow our cheeks and refresh our soul and our sensitivity. But every time I lose loved ones, friends and colleagues, I always want to react with action, rather than breaking down.
Their passion and their values are the same that animate many of us alive, and their skill and integrity must be the fuel to react and take on their teachings. In other words, our backpacks must also be filled with their human baggage, narrating them must help us who have loved and known them, to live and act in a better way and that we are still living the journey of life intensely, just like our three brothers that have passed.
Ciao Hansjörg, David, and Jess, your climb continues...
No one will ever know the reason for this.
A few other times I felt so sad when the mountain takes away some souls. It's really hard for me.
I ask myself some questions, I am thinking about the future, but in the deep of my heart, I know what it meant to you and therefore I can only be grateful for the time spent together, for the laughs, the chat, and the parties.
I will always admire your courage...the courage to live your dreams!
RIP
The mountain gives us everything and in a second it takes everything away from us; although it is difficult to understand, it is where we want to be. I am extremely sorry for the loss of David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Jess Roskelley. I would love to have shared an expedition with them; in fact, lately I have been following David Lama's adventures with a lot of admiration and a desire to share some experience together.
Three talented and experienced young climbers, without a doubt a great loss for mountaineering. My condolences to families and friends. They will never be forgotten. Respect and all my admiration. See you on the mountain, friends.
Some things are always out of our hands. As pro mountaineers we somehow manage to live with the bitter realities of this profession. But there are news that pierce through your heart and mark it permanently. The three missing mountaineers were no doubt a great asset of our community and the gap they created can never be bridged. My heartiest condolences to the family and friends of the missing climbers.
Rest in peace David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjorg Auer
There are some days in which, even for a mountaineer, turn the look towards the mountains is very difficult and painful. The heart beats suffocated by sadness and we wonder the sense of what we do. Today is one of those days. One of those where you would never want to get out of bed because you know that facing life will be harder. David Lama, Hansjorg Auer, and jess roskelley are gone. Last time we sat at a table all together to discuss mountaineering and future projects was in zermatt, last November. I remember David and his question: " what do you think the climbs of the future? Those "outstanding"? had started so a long hours discussion and finished at 3 am at the hotel bar. In front of me David and hansjorg, two incredibly gifted guys, motivated, strong and a thousand dreams to be Today unfortunately there are only those dreams, the climbs we talked about and so much, so much sadness Mountaineering is once again in mourning.
To friends and families my deepest condolences.
We all go to the mountains because there is some innate part of being human that seeks challenge and there is endless challenge to be found in our wild places. I've always seen mountains as a blank canvas that lets me be an artist by choosing my unique path when amongst them. It's freedom in its purest and most simple form. But, like many things in life, what you originally set out to do isn't always where you end up. It's the unexpected adventures along the way that create the true magic. There's so much more to this passion than just the climb or the ski, there are the human connections created along this journey that have been some of the deepest and most profound friendships of my life. There is also tragedy. The mountains are both majestic and fierce. They give so much and they take so much. It is with profound sadness, frustration and even anger that this week we have lost so much passion, kindness, ingenuity and unadulterted talent with the passing of these three human beings.
***
My heart goes out to the families and loved ones of David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Jess Roskelley. My thoughts and prayers are with you.
I don't find words for the loss of our friends. Thankful that I had the opportunity to spend great times in the mountains with Hansjörg. All my thoughts are with the familys and friends of Hansjörg, David and Jess. Be free!
David Lama. Hansjörg Auer. Jess Roskelley. Thee visionaries, who brought light into the alpinism world were lost in an avalanche. The shadow of their loss is big among people who love mountains but the bright they created and has inspired many of us will continue to fill.
Condolences to the families and friends
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It hurts to feel the crushing magnitude of losing people you not only really care about, but also that are such iconic figureheads of our community.
My heart breaks and I am praying for the direct family members and loved ones involved.
Jess was one of the most driven, positive, humble, goofy, and kind friends. He accomplished daunting mountains with a smile and inspiring ability to encourage you to see no limits, too.
Despite the magnitude of his accomplishments, he wasn’t “above” anyone. He was a genuine, radical guy and husband to an equally inspiring, kickass woman,
David Lama- who in our direct community doesn’t have a story...? Soft spoken, genuine BADASS. Footsy
It’s been some time since the three of us hung out together but I will never forget how you have always been the number one climber I have looked up to’s career...the childhood prodigy turned all-rounded mountain climbing technician. He was the guy that could probably come back from a long expedition and still fire 5.14’s like he never left the gym.
Hansjorg; an Austrian legend,
I didn’t know you as personally so well but man, your accomplishments were so damn legendary.
It’s so hard for me to wrap my mind around this except for the fact that the mountains are at once beautiful and merciless.
These guys knew what they were doing in the mountains. They were straight legends. That’s what is terrifying to me. It doesn’t matter who you are or what your resume is: extremely unlucky circumstances can still happen.
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I first heard about David Lama at a youth world climbing championship in Edinburgh , Scotland. We were competing in the same age category and there was alot of hype behind him as being a child climbing prodigy. He stunned us all by effortlessly floating the finals route and winning the comp. David kept to this competition path and won the 2008 lead WC overall, 2007 European bouldering champs, and took bronze at the 2009 Lead World Champs in Xining. I had the pleasure to compete with David, but also share many outdoor experiences with him. Right after I graduated high school I moved to Innsbruck, Austria for a year where David was one of my main climbing partners. He showed me Zillertal, we bouldered in Swiss, we raged at night in innsbruck Haha. I always was impressed with his talent in climbing and his approach to it. David did what he wanted to do and what sounded fun in the moment. David later came to the US and stayed with my family and I in CO for a few weeks. He flew with his trad rack, alpine gear, bouldering gear... Haha he was prepared for anything. After that trip we stayed in touch but David showed more of an interest for climbing in the alpine where I stayed with the blocs. He ended up using that talent of his by doing so many remarkable ascents in the mountains (tons of ascents that were out there bold... dude was confident and brave). I haven't spoken to David in a few years but wish I was better with staying in touch. I just read that David, Hansjorg Auer, and Jess Roskelley passed away in an avalanche while attempting to climb the east face of Howse Peak in Alberta, Canada. The other 2 alpinists were also legends along with David. I did not know them like I knew David but knew of what they did in the climbing world. It's weird to lose a friend but I know he went doing what he loved. I will forever remember you David Lama aka Footsy. RIP
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* The official website of David Lama mentioned the height as 6907m. According to AAJ, HDB the height is 6895m.