After K2 in Winter, Gelje Sherpa (28) aims to become the youngest to climb all 14 8Ks

Gelje Sherpa (a. k. a. Geljen) is presently eyeing a goal - to become the next youngest climber in history to summit all fourteen 8000ers. Currently, this record, recognized by the Guinness World Records, is held by Gelje’s fellow ‘Winter K2’ teammate, Mingma Gyabu Sherpa (b. 16.05.1989).

To make the record, Gelje, now 28, has approximately two years to climb the remaining four peaks - Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Broad Peak, and Cho Oyu. Mingma Gyabu had achieved this feat at the age of 30 years, 166 days in nine years between 23.05.2010 to 29.10.2019. On achieving this, Mingma Gyabu broke the previous record of Mingma Sherpa (b. 16.06.1978) who had climbed all the 8ks by the age of 32 years, 338 days in ten years between 12.05.2000 to 20.05.2011.

According to Himalayan Database, Mingma Sherpa's brother, Chhang Dawa Sherpa (b. 30.07.1982) had become the youngest to have achieved the feat at the age of 30 years, 274 day between 14th May, 2001 to 30th April, 2013.

Gelje, born on 12th November, 1992, is optimistic that he would make his country and his community proud again.

"It'll be amongst the Sherpas and we need more of them," said Gelje. He aspires to kick-start his mission in the Spring season of 2021, even though there remain uncertainties regarding his sponsorships. Besides, his historic first Winter ascent on K2 in January 2021, as the youngest amongst 10 Nepalese climbers, he also happens to be the youngest climber with eight 8000m summits done in 6 months.

In an exclusive interview with Dream Wanderlust from Kathmandu, Gelje, talks about his early years as a high-altitude porter and his previous attempts on K2 in Winter with Alex Txikon. He is presently on his way to Everest Base Camp to climb Lhotse, and possibly Everest again. In the interview, he also sheds light on his association with Nirmal Purja’s historic Project Possible mission, and how that, earned him the fame of being part of the first Winter ascent of K2.

Previous Records of the Youngest to Complete 14 8Ks

Name	DOB	Age at the Time of Record	Time Taken to Climb 14 8Ks	First 8K	Last 8K
Mingma Gyabu Sherpa	16.05.1989	30 Years 166 Days	9 Years 5 Months 6 Days	Everest (23.05.2010)	Shishapangma (29.10.2019)
Chhang Dawa Sherpa	30.07.1982	30 Years 274 Days	11 Years 11 Months 16 Days	Makalu (14.05.2001)	Shishapangma (30.04.2013)
Mingma Sherpa	16.06.1978	32 Years 338 Days	11 Years 8 Days	Manaslu (12.05.2000)	Kangchenjunga (20.05.2011)
Gelje Sherpa	12.11.1992	-	-	Manaslu (27.09.2017)	-

DW: You scripted history by summiting K2 for the first time in Winter as the youngest (at just 28) member of the 10-man team. Was it your first Winter ascent on any 8k? How difficult was it to make it to the summit?

Gelje: We, all ten, summited K2 together. I did it as the youngest member at 28. That too, was my first ever Winter ascent in my career. In doing so, while the weather was so harsh and cold, I can say that this is no small feat for us.

DW: Nepalese Sherpa team climbed K2 this Winter. You must be very proud of it! How do you see this achievement as a Nepalese climber?

Gelje: Our Sherpa team reached the summit of K2 and we sang the Nepalese national anthem together. It made us feel so proud of our achievement. More so, because nobody else had done it before us.

DW: You joined Alex Txikon's Winter K2 Expedition in 2018-19. How different was your experience back then compared to this time? How much of your past efforts helped you climb K2 in Winter this time?

Gelje: I've been climbing with Alex Txikon since 2016. Our journey started with Everest. I was an icefall doctor. Since then, I've climbed many 8000m peaks and now there are only four left. I've climbed in all major climbing seasons apart from Winter. Besides, I have experience of six previous Winter expeditions on 8000ers. That is why it was easier for me to determine what kind of gear would be appropriate in certain circumstances on Winter K2. As I said, I accompanied Alex Txikon on his Winter expedition to K2 as well. That time, we had lesser manpower. This time, we had more which contributed to our success.

DW: You are aiming to set a world record by climbing all 8ks as the youngest climber. 10 out of 14 have been climbed already in the last three years. How are you planning to climb the remaining 4?

Gelje: I wish to break the existing record of the youngest climber with all 14 summits on 8000ers. If possible, in this year itself, otherwise, by next year. I have only four of them left - Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Broad Peak, and Cho Oyu.

If I get a sponsor to climb all of them, I would be able to do it or I have to wait for a working opportunity if at all I get any. I am trying if someone helps me achieve my dream.

DW: In the span of 6 months you have completed 8 peaks, which is a record itself. Was it possible because of your association with Nirmal Purja and his Project Possible Team?

Gelje: I was with the Project Possible team of Nims Dai where he climbed all 14 8000ers in 6 months and 6 days. I was one of the key members in his team. In total, I climbed eight of the 8000ers by the time I was only 26.

DW: Mingma Gyabu Sherpa (David) is currently holding the record of being the youngest (at 30) climber to have climbed all 14 8ks. You have climbed with him on different expeditions. He is excited about your plan, he said in an interview. Did he inspire you?

Gelje: Mingma David made the current record in 30 years and 166 days. I am planning to break it before that. He is also excited about this because this record was set by a Sherpa and now it may be broken by another. It'll be amongst the Sherpas and we need more of them. I hope we would be able to make Nepal proud again.

DW: To beat the record of Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, you still have two years to climb Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Broad Peak, and Cho Oyu. Will you both climb these peaks and guide clients on other 8000ers separately?

Gelje: I don't have any sponsor or funds. I don't have that much money. That is why I cannot do it separately by myself. Only if I get clients and sponsors, I would be able to do it.

DW: Your first 8k expedition was to Kangchenjunga in 2017. You had to abandon the summit from 8200m due to bad weather. This year, will you prefer going to Kangchenjunga first or guide clients to other peaks?

Gelje: I was on Kangchenjunga in 2017. That was the first 8000er. I was at 8270m that time. The weather forecast wasn't in favour of us. Also, we neither had enough ropes nor had enough manpower to keep climbing. I had to come back that time but afterward, I climbed Manaslu which became my first 8000er.

DW: You started as a high-altitude porter back in 2009. It took you 10 years to get a breakthrough in Nirmal Purja's Project Possible in 2019 and now, you're also one of his 'Winter K2' teammates. How did your partnership with him start?

Gelje: Before I started my career in 8000ers, I worked as a porter and an icefall doctor. Then I also used to carry oxygen higher up the mountains. That is how I spent almost five years of the initial phase of my career. Then in 2017, I climbed my first 8000er - Manaslu. Since then, until now, in less than 4 years, I climbed all 10.

DW: Do you have any plan to climb more in Winter as a climber (not Sherpa)?

Gelje: I don't have any plan for any Winter expedition yet. If I get an opportunity in future, I will obviously try. If I get any tough expedition, I may do it. I like it that way.

DW: How do you see the upcoming Spring this year in Nepal (after a long disruption due to the pandemic)?

Gelje: This Spring has a lesser number of groups, unlike previous year. This year, because of the pandemic, it is much lesser than the other times. There may be about twenty groups or something like that. Earlier there used to be 30-40 groups.

DW: Thanks for giving us the time. Wish you all the best!

Gelje: Welcome! I get a bit confused about interviews because I don't do it very often. But I tried my best. As much as I could!