Alpine Style and Self Supported Ascents in the Losar Valley of North Western Spiti - August 2018

Dream Wanderlust | Aug 30 , 2018

On 13th of August, 2018, a five member team from the Himalayan Club's Kolkata section started their journey to the North West corner of Spiti Himalaya. The aim of their trip, as reported by the climbing leader, Anindya Mukherjee was to 'rekindle' the spirit of self supported alpinism that was once practiced by the Indians in the Himalaya. "Inspired by the examples of 'Alpinism', epitomized by Shipton and Tilman, and set by the likes of Bidyut Sarkar and Gautam Datta in the eighties and disenchanted with the current trend of Sherpa supported, fixed roped mountain tourism; our team set its Base Camp in the Suvitha nala valley on 18th of August," he added.

In the next few days the team opened route, ferried load and established a higher camp at an altitude of approximately 5100m below Gyundi Pass (5700m).

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On 23rd August, 2018, Partha Das and Anindya Mukherjee climbed Gyundi Pass and Larimo (5995m). Anindya Mukherjee traversed the northerly ridge from the summit of Larimo and climbed an unnamed (and previously unclimbed) peak 6015m.

The team thus achieved the second ascent of Larimo (after its first ascent in 1994 by Arun Samant's team) and first ascent of peak 6015m. No fixed rope was used. Carry, camp and climb philosophy was followed.

Team: Dr. Kallol Das (Leader), Anindya Mukherjee (climbing leader), Tapas Kumar Deb, Sanjay Moitra, Partha Das, Lakpa Sherpa (Base Camp Cook), Milan Chettri (Kitchen Helper)