On 2nd September, 2024 at around 10am, Indian climber and explorer Anindya Mukherjee made the second ascent of peak 6044m by free soloing its North face. The peak is located in the Khyam lungpa (valley) of Ladakh Himalaya. With this ascent, he charted a new route on the mountain, a direct line on its North face, a 300m ice route that meets the north ridge of 6044m at the foot of its subsidiary summit.
The Route
Summit Selfie
Anindya took 2 hours to reach the summit and 1.5 hrs to get down safely. He has named his route in honor of his long-time climbing partner Aloke Kumar Das - 'Aloke Da'. Aloke (64) and Anindya (54) have been seen on numerous climbing expeditions together since 2013 (Nanda Devi East 7434m).
Aloke and Anindya left Leh on 28 August and reached their BC in the northern valley of Ama Chomo Nyug Ri (aka Gyamshoo 6057m) the next day (29 August). From base, the duo operated in a self-sustained, unsupported, alpine-style approach to the foot of the climb where they placed a high camp (5650m).
BC 5240m, with Ama Chomo Nyug Ri 6057m (Gyamshoo) and peak 6044m in the backrop
High camp and the north face of peak 6044m
Base Camp at 5240m
In addition to charting a new route on the North face of 6044m, the duo had planned a traverse of Gyamshoo and 6044. But due to inclement weather, a vital day was lost and they had to be content with the ascent of North Face of 6044 only.
The total duration of this climbing trip was only 5 days leh to leh. Since doing the first ascent of 6044m on 7 August, 2024 Anindya wanted to return to the mountain and climb a direct line on the icy north face of 6044.
Routes A and B are the first ascent lines of 7 August 2024. Route C is Anindya's solo ascent line of 2 September 2024.
It is noteworthy that the peak Gyamshoo (6057m) is locally known as Ama Chomo Nyug Ri and it's first documented ascent was done by Gerry Galligan and Anindya Mukherjee on 30 July, 2024.
The first ascent of peak 6044m was done on 7th August, 2024, when Gerry Galligan, Anindya Mukherjee, Ashish Chanda, Phurtenji Sherpa and Neetu Singh climbed its East ridge and did a complete traverse of the mountain.
