Denis Urubko to attempt Winter ascent on Broad Peak and K2 as his final venture on Eight-Thousanders

Dream Wanderlust | Sept 15 , 2019

Denis Urubko (46), the Russian alpinist, who has climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplemental oxygen, announced his plans for the upcoming Winter at the 16th Mountain Film Festival in Krakow, Poland. He is targeting Board Peak and possibly K2 in Winter. He also surprised the climbing fraternity by adding his unexpected statement that, he would like to finish his ascents in the high mountains and only climb rocks in the future, after the Winter expedition, as he hinted in an exclusive interview, last month, with Dream Wanderlust after opening a new route on Gasherbrum II. "... I have interest in many other options of alpinism - to develop rock-climbing, to create help for youth, to write articles and make movies...", stated by the ace alpinist.

The first Winter ascent of Broad Peak was made by Poles Maciej Berbeka, Tomasz Kowalski, Adam Bielecki and Artur MaÅ‚ek on 5th March 2013. The leader of the team was Krzysztof Wielicki. Unfortunately, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski died on the descent. Denis believes Winter begins not according to the astronomical (from December 22 to March 22), but to the Gregorian calendar (from December 1 to the end of February). So he has decided to return to the Broad Peak this Winter and planning to climb it in February or possibly earlier.

Also Read: Alex Txikon Announces Winter Expedition to Annapurna 2024-25

Urubko admitted that climbing K2 in Winter is significant for him and he will also have the permission for K2. But K2 climbing depends on the weather and time factor. Urubko was part the Polish National K2 Winter Expedition 2017-18. The expedition was ended mainly because of bad weather. However the expedition ended at 7400m, later in his solo attempt, Urubko reported to be reached at 7600m, after taking part a heroic rescue operation on Nanga Parbat.

Denis Urubko at the K2 Base Camp during the Polish National K2 Winter Expedition 2017-18

Besides his glorious records on high mountain in any season, Urubko also wrote history by making first Winter ascent of Makalu (with Simone Moro on 9th February, 2009) and Gasherbrum II (with Simone Moro and Cory Richards on 2nd February, 2011).