Divyesh Muni-led team made the first ascent of Peak 6496m in the Karakoram

Dream Wanderlust | Aug 28 , 2024

Indian climber and explorer Divyesh Muni, along with his teammates Sudeep Barve and Yogesh Umbare from the Himalayan Club, and three Sherpas, namely Sangbu Bhutia, Phurten Bhote, and Phupu Dorje Bhutia, successfully made the first ascent of an unnamed 6,496-meter peak in the Eastern Karakoram, Ladakh, on August 14, 2024. They named the peak Laknak Kangri, with 'Laknak' meaning 'Golden Eagle' in the Ladakhi language.

Last year, The Himalayan Club and Chakram Hikers held a joint expedition to the Thangman Lungpa valley in Ladakh, making the first ascents of Dzashesz Kangri (6,075 m) on August 13th and Manlung Kangri (6,207 m) on August 16th, 2023.

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"We explored the Thangman Lungpa in 2023 and were delighted to discover the 'hidden gems' of unclimbed peaks in the area. We made two first ascents but had to end the expedition due to health issues within the team. However, one peak, standing at 6,496 meters, dominated the valley. We couldn’t attempt it in 2023, so we decided to return and focus on that peak," team leader Divyesh Muni informed Dream Wanderlust about their expedition's objective.

"We are delighted that we found a good route and made the first ascent of the peak. It was challenging, as this year, snow was almost absent, and huge crevasses and bergschrunds were exposed, making it difficult to find a safe route between C1 and Summit Camp. It took us two hard days to open the route to Summit Camp, and even then, we had some anxious moments. The route to the summit was relatively simple, requiring us to fix only a small section for a safe retreat. Overall, it was a very satisfying climb," he added.

The Approach

After the initial recce and checking of the feasibility of the climb, the team decided to approach the mountain from the southern face. The climb was truly challenging & technical with many crevices, bergschrund & steep slopes. The team had to fix up approx. 700 m rope on the route. Establishing the summit camp at an altitude of 6100m on a narrow ridge, the team approached the summit from the southwest Ridge. On 14th August .2024, they reached the summit. Carefully negotiating an equally challenging descent, the team returned safely to base camp on 15th Aug. Mahesh Kendurkar (Dy Leader) had to return to the base camp, after spending three nights at Camp 1, due to his sustained knee injury. The fifth member of the team, Prajakta Ghode earlier returned to Leh on 9th Aug due to health issues. The team finally reached Leh in batches on 18th Aug 2024.

The team enjoyed mesmerizing and breathtaking views of a galaxy of peaks from the summit, predominantly 7000er peaks like Momotsong Kangri, and Aqtash on one side while Saser Kangri group of peaks, Plateau peak on the other.