Doug Scott (1941-2020) - A Legacy

Dream Wanderlust | Dec 8 , 2020

Legendary British climber and author Douglas Keith Scott (79) lost his life to cancer on 7th December, 2020.

In 2011, the Montegnes and the Groupe de Haute Montagne awarded him with the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award, for his contribution to mountaineering with 30 first-ascents spreading across the Himalayas, Karakorams, Baffin Island, and other mountain ranges.

Also Read: Kashmiri Climbers Reclaim History: Cefn Carnedd Peak climbed in Sonamarg After 79 Years

Scott rose to prominence after the first-ever historic ascent to Everest via its notorious southwest face in 1975. Together with Dougal Haston, he survived a bivouac, just 100m below the summit of Everest.

Best known for his first-ascents on big walls, he was associated with the crème de la crème of the climbing clan, like Peter Habeler, Chris Bonington, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker.

Most Notable Expeditions

1966

First ascent of Crowbar with Bill Cheverst.
First ascent of Syringe with Ray Gillies.

1967

First ascent of South Face to Koh-i-Bandaka in Hindu Kush with Ray Gillies.
First Winter ascent by the East Face to Koh-i-Sisgeikh with Tony Watts.
First ascent of Big Overhang Anglesey with Brian Palmer.

1970

First British ascent to Salathe Wall, El Capitan with Peter Habeler.

1971

First Winter ascent of East Face of Killabuk in Baffin Island with Dennis Hennek, Rob Wood, Ray Gillies and Steave Smith.

1972

Attempted Everest by the South West Face up to 8000m in Spring and 8300m in Autumn respectively.
First ascent by the East Pillar to Mount Asgard in Baffin Island with Dennis Hennek, Paul Nunn, and Paul Braithwaite.

1974

First ascent of Changabang in Indian Himalayas, with Martin Boysen, Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston, Tashi Chewang and Balwant Sandhu.
First ascent by the South East Ridge of Lenin Peak in Pamir range with Clive Rowland, Guy Lee, and Paul Braithwaite.

1975

First British ascent to Everest by the South West Face in Autumn with Dougal Haston.

1976

First alpine ascent by the South Face of Denali in Alaska with Dougal Haston.
First ascent by the South West Buttress to Overlord in Baffin Island with Dennis Hennek
First ascent of Diamond Lil, Long's Peak Colorado with Dennis Hennek and Mike Covington.
First ascent by North East face of Nelion.
First Winter ascent of the Diamond Couloir on Mount Kenya with Paul Braithwaite.

1977

First Winter ascent of The Ogre or Baintha Brakk by the West Ridge in the Karakorams with Chris Bonington plus Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine to the final tower.

1978

Successful ascent by South East Chimney of Mount Waddington, Canada with Rob Wood.
Attempted K2 (8711m) by the West Ridge.

1979

First ascent by the North ridge of Kangchenjunga (8586m) without supplemental oxygen with Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman in Spring.
First ascent of the North Summit of Kusum Kangguru in Nepal with Georges Bettembourg.
First ascent by North Buttress of Nuptse in Nepal with Alan Rouse, Brian Hall, and Georges Bettembourg from Western Cwm.

1980

Attempted Makalu (8485m) by South East Ridge with Georges Bettembourg and Roger Baxter-Jones up to 8180m in Autumn.

1981

First ascent by East Pillar of Shivling in India with Rick White, Greg Child, and Georges Bettembourg.

1982

Ascent of Shishapangma by South West face of Shishapangma (8013m) with Roger Baxter-Jones and Alex MacIntyre.
First ascent of Pungpa Ri by the South East face in Tibet with Roger Baxter-Jones and Alex MacIntyre.

1983

First ascent of Lob sang Spire by South Pillar in Karakoram with Greg Child and Pete Thexton.
First ascent via new route on Broad Peak with Steve Sustad.
Attempted K2 by South Pillar with Andy Parkin, Roger Baxter-Jones and Jean Afanassieff up to 7500m.

1984

First ascent of Yaupa South-East (6300m) Barun Valley with Michael Scoot, Ang Phurba, and Jean Afanassieff & Baruntse (7143m), Barun Valley in alpine style with Michael Scoot, Ang Phurba, and Jean Afanassieff.
First ascents of Chamlang East & Central summits by East Ridge and first descent through North face with Michael Scott, Ang Phurba, and Jean Afanassieff.
Attempted Makalu by South East rirdge of Makalu with Steve Sustad and Jean Afanassieff up to 8370m in Autumn.

1985

First ascent of Minipin in Karakorams with Michael Scott, Mark Miller, and Alastair Reid.
Attempted Nanga Parbat by South West ridge up to 7400m.

1986

First ascent by the South East face on Mount Colonel Foster Canada with Greg Child and Rob Wood.
First Winter ascent of Waterpipe Gully, Skye.
First Winter ascent of Captain Patience with Seanna Bbraigh.

1987

Attempted Everest by the North East Ridge in alpine style up to 8200m with Rick Allen in Autumn.

1988

First ascent to the South Side of Hemsedal with Stein Aasheim.
First ascent of Blomannen Face and other routes, Lyngen Peninsula with Sjur Nessaieim.
First ascent of Jitchu Drake by the South Face in Bhutan in alpine style with Victor Saunders and Sharu Prabhu.
Attempted Makalu by West Face in Autumn up to 7000m.

1990