Happy that Polish Piolet d'Or recognises my action on 8000ers as one of the sportive pearls: Denis Urubko

Dream Wanderlust | Sept 24 , 2020

Denis Urubko has been conferred with yet another Piolet d'Or at the 25th Lądek Mountain Film Festival in Poland. This time, for opening a new line on Gasherbrum II, that he dearly named the 'Honeymoon Route' on 1st August, 2019.

"Very proud and happy that the Polish community discovered my action on 8000ers as one of the sportive pearls", says the mountain maven during a recent interview with Dream Wanderlust, a year after his 24-hour speed-climb on Gasherbrum II.

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Denis with the award

His tryst with the 8034m-peak began in 2001 during a speed ascent within 7 hours and 30 minutes, followed by the first Winter ascent in 2011 with Simone Moro and Cory Richards.

Few days within the remarkable route-opening in 2019, Urubko told us, "Solo ascents give a specific sense of real freedom & responsibility." That very well echoes the principles of Piolets d'Or. The Montagnes and the Groupe de Haute Montagne - the organising authority, as always, considered "ethical alpinism" as the pivotal hallmark in a climbing cynosure. With the glory of five new lines on 8000ers (Ghasherbrum II, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Broad Peak), Urubko is unarguably a justified recipient of the iconic Golden Ice Axe this year.

Denis, along with Sergeuy Samoilov, was one of finalists at Piolet d'Or 2006 for an alpine-style route-opening on Manaslu's North-East face.

Since then, he has been awarded the prestigious Golden Ice Axe multiple times. His new line on Cho Oyu via a 2600m-wall deserves a special mention. Urubko, then already two-newline-old, climbed 8201m-peak by South-East face in 2009.

A decade later, his solo speed-ascent via South West face of Gasherbrum II got him yet another Polish Piolet d'Or. Surprisingly, Urubko had made a preparatory ascent on the peak via classic route two weeks earlier he opened his Honeymoon route. Then followed the rescue operations of Francesco Cassardo, Cala Cimenti, and Saulius Damulevičius, and a Pakistani mountain guide three days prior to the incommunicado ascent via new route.

On the summit of Gasherbrum II on 1st August, 2019 by new route

Over the years, Denis has not only spectacled at climbing but also ventured out to exhibit humanity up above the death zone. Such of his act has been honoured by the Piolets d'Or with yet another Golden Ice Axe last year for his valiant attempt to rescue Elizabeth Revol in 2018.

In an exclusive interview with Dream Wanderlust, 47-year-old legend discloses how his priorities have now shifted to rock-climbing and self-exploration from his no-oxygen endeavours on 8000ers.

Interview with Denis Urubko

DW: Since 2006, with Manaslu, your climbing achievements got you multiple Piolet d'Or awards. How would you react to it, now that you received it again this year?

Denis: About my ascent on Gasherbrum II by the new line: I did just for myself, as always. But I am not young and I have experience. In 2005, the invitation for Piolet d'Or ceremony was a big surprise. But the public attention in 2019 was predictable, thanks to you too! I am very proud and happy that Polish community discovered my action on 8000ers as one of the sportive pearls. Because, as it is possible to see, it is a rare example amongst other ascents in mountaineering history over 8000m. I am satisfied about the "ethical control" - means that my activities are interesting for people. Polish Piolet d'Or is a real confirmation of this. As an Art - it is a personal achievement, but this award brings happiness with recognition.

DW: How did you feel when you came to know that your rescue effort on Nanga Parbat has been recognized in Piolet d'Or 2019?

Denis: It is a matter of pride, of course. I am able to be in row with other responsible people e.g., doctors, fireguards, and police. All emergency rescue services in "normal" social life, feels like helping others as it is a duty or a mission. My ability to help others in mountains is a chance to be over my fear and egoism, thanks to Fortune, to be "normal".

DW: Earlier this year, you retired from 8000ers. Any possibility to return later at all? If not, where are you aiming to climb in future?

Denis: Not soon. There are some thoughts: assistance for Maria if she opts for a new line in alpine style on any 8000er. Also, organising “my style" of K2 Winter expedition and a record of 27 ascents over 8000m peaks. But two of these projects require a few years of preparation to execute.

The last one is for the classical routes (with oxygen perhaps) and I am not in hurry so I can wait till I am 60.

Just that now I prefer to spend my power in sportive actions on rocks. Even for me it is not totally interesting form of Alpinism now.

What I can do to accomplish more interesting (with more ambition) projects than the previous expeditions? That is going to be too risky of an activity. I am not young physically. So chances are there to make mistakes during any ascent. My kids and friends, parents and job, self-exploration - are of more importance that will need my attention and time now.