Huantsan 2018 International Expedition

Alberto Peruffo, from Italy, and a team of four other climbers from the Italian Alpine Club with Cesar Rosales and Fredi Cruz Lumbe from Peru and Anindya Mukherjee from the Himalayan Club India formed the team. They were later joined by two very young Bolivian climbers.

From left to right: Fredi Cruz Lumbe, Enrico Ferri, Federico Moro, Pietro Contalbrigo, Edwin, Alberto Peruffo, Anindya Mukherjee, Cesar Rosales and Francesco Vascellari

Base Camp (4260m) was established on 3rd July near Laguna Rajuqolta.

Huantsan

Huantsan from Base Camp

On 4th July Anindya Mukherjee and a few other members went upto recce and ferry with the aim to gain the South Ridge. On 6th July, moving up the true left of the Huantsans' Glacier, Camp-1 (5120m) was established and occupied.

Huantsan West Summit from Camp-1

On 7th July the team further pushed up the South Ridge only to find it to be a treacherous ridge with terrible snow conditions ornamented with cornices, seracs and mushrooms.

South Ridge from Col

On South Ridge

On South Ridge

Climbing on the South Ridge

8th and 9th July: After prolonged discussion the South Ridge route was aborted.

10th July: While the others returned to Base Camp a team of four, three Peruvian climbers and Anindya Mukherjee, came up back to Camp-1 and on 11th July summited Rurec (5700m), a neighbouring peak forming a Col with Huantsan.

11th July: The rest of the team shifted their focus to the North Ridge - North Summit of Huantsan.

Huantsan (Left) & Rurec (Right)

Rurec climb

On the summit of Rurec. From left to right: Fredi Cruz Lumbe, Cesar Rosales and Anindya Mukherjee

On the summit of Rurec. From left to right: Cesar Rosales, Malu Espinoza and Anindya Mukherjee

On Rurec with Huantsan in background

Last news was received on 14th July that 6 climbers are in Camp-2 on the North Ridge.

Further updates are awaited.

Photo Courtesy: Anindya Mukherjee