Interview with Benjamin: youngest to climb Broad Peak without O2, wants to establish new route on Nanga

"There were moments, I couldn't control my breathing and heart rate which felt scary. But my friends said it was to be expected so I just ridded it out," he stated while talking about the risk factors he conquered to achieve this feat.

Benjamin Chan on the top of Broad Peak

His initial target was to climb K2 without supplemental oxygen, whereas, Broad Peak was supposed to be climbed only for acclimatization. Nonetheless, having returned to the Base Camp from Broad Peak, he found out that his agency packed up their Base Camp services for undisclosed reasons even though Chan and his team had remunerated them for it in advance. While he did not use any porter and could have continued his ascent on K2, he decided to step back as his team felt less assured without additional assistance from the agency.

The excerpt from the interview is shared as follows:

Interview with Benjamin Chan

DW: Congratulations on becoming the youngest climber on Broad Peak without supplemental Oxygen! Is this your first ever ascent on any 8000er without oxygen?

Benjamin: Yes, I had climbed Everest last year with supplemental oxygen.

DW: How do you describe this expedition (what special do you feel about it)?

Benjamin: An eye-opening expedition that showed me the potential of climbing in Pakistan. It is the most densely populated mountain area I've seen. There were so many lines I spotted that I will definitely be coming back to try. I also met friends that are like family who have done numerous first ascents such as the Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat. It inspires me to push my capabilities.

DW: How did you prepare yourself for this expedition?

Benjamin: A regular routine of training on treadmill to get mileage, trail-running in the mountains and bouldering. As I'm occupied during the weekdays with university, I can only spend my weekends going on long hikes with 15kg of water in my backpack. I try to do some gym sessions to work on strengthening and stabilizing ankle muscles to avoid reinjuring my left ankle.

DW: How did you calculate/overcome the risk factors involved with summiting without oxygen?

Benjamin: Having the confidence that I have done so much training, I was physically prepared, only my mind would have stopped me. Also, I talked to some of my teammates who had done many 8000m peaks without oxygen and they told me what to expect.

DW: Tell us if you had any important/interesting experience during this expedition.

Benjamin: We surprisingly had a good weather this year in Pakistan and conditions on the mountains were relatively good apart from having to break some trails. It was an interesting experience climbing at 8000m as there were moments, I couldn't control my breathing and heart rate which felt scary. But my friends said it was to be expected so I just ridded it out.

DW: Your actual plan was to summit K2 and Broad Peak. But later you have climbed only Broad Peak. What happened to your K2 plan? Have you tried to climb the peak, or decided to climb it later?

Benjamin: Unfortunately, our team got into a disagreement with the owner of Karakorum Expeditions agency. He failed to provide us Base Camp services and forced us to pack up everything on 23rd July when we had a permit only till 14th August. There were many issues with the company that I hope no one gets to experience. I hope to come back to try K2 properly next year.

DW: You have two 8000er in your pocket. One is in the Himalaya and the other is in the Karakoram region. What differences have you observed between climbing in those two regions?

Benjamin: In the Himalayas, the infrastructure is more developed, there are teahouses and mountains are relatively easier to access. Also, the weather forecast is extremely accurate, making it easier to plan and approach the mountains. However, in the Karakoram, weather is rather unpredictable. The forecast can say no precipitation and you look out of the tent and it is pouring down with snow. Also, Pakistan blows my mind away, it really feels like an adventure being in such a remote place with mountains everywhere.

DW: You have a plan to summit all Seven Summits and to become the youngest to do so. What is the current status of that plan?

Benjamin: I left it to focus on other objectives, I felt it wasn't challenging enough.

DW: Please tell us about your upcoming projects.

Benjamin: I may be heading to Sichuan province in China with a friend this February to explore unclimbed mountains and set up some first ascents. Next summer, I hope to return to Pakistan to establish a new line on Nanga Parbat and go back to try K2. I'm beginning to move away from doing normal routes where the route is already well known. I am more interested to explore unknown routes.

DW: Do you have any role model(s), or do you adore any climber?

Benjamin: I was following David Lama for a while; he was a massive source of inspiration for me bringing so much energy to the sport. But also, this year meeting and climbing with Rick Allen and Louis Rousseau, Rick climbed the Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat and Louis had set up remarkable first ascents in his home town in Canada.

DW: Tell us a bit about your childhood. Did you always want to become an adventurist?

Benjamin: I was a kid who loved trying new things. Since a very young age, my dad would bring me to go stream-hiking and for long camping trips. During the summer, I would join the Scout's expedition to overseas for hiking in the Dolomites and the Alps. This sparked my passion for the outdoors, where I actually started in an indoor gym.

DW: In what way did your parents support you in your journey to all the extreme places on mountains?

Benjamin: Initially, they were nervous about what I was doing, slightly scared because, I was risking my life. But as I climbed more, they began to have confidence and have always supported me in chasing my dreams. Without them and my friends, all of these would not have been possible.

DW: Thank you so much for the interview and we wish you the best for your future expeditions.

Photo Courtesy: Benjamin Chan