Kang Yatse-IV First Ascent by Three Indian Alpinists

On 1st August 2021, a team, who call themselves 2L1B (Two Ladakhi one Bengali) made the first-ever documented ascent of Kang Yatse-IV (6130m) through a completely new route. They climbed the mountain in self-sustained alpine style. Climbers Sonam Yangjor, Stanzin Wangial Kaya, and Anindya Mukherjee started from Base Camp, Langthang Chu Valley of Ladakh and camped at two places on their way to the summit.

The Kang Yatse-IV has twin summits of the same altitude of 6130m, called the North Summit and South Summit. The team reached the North Summit by the North Face North Ridge route. The team has now safely returned to Leh.

"This was our second attempt on the mountain. Earlier this year, we attempted Kang Yatse-IV in April but had to return from Camp-2 due to a furious snowstorm. This time we took a different route," Anindya Mukherjee said exclusively to Dream Wanderlust from Leh today. "It is highly satisfactory for us because it was an exploratory climb and we, a team of only three people, have done it in alpine style with a minimal impact on the mountain," he added.

Expedition Summary

Team: Sonam Yangjor, Stanzin Wangial Kaya and Anindya Mukherjee (all have summited the peak)
Route: North Face and North Ridge
Summit: North summit (6130m) of twin identical Summits Kang Yatse-IV
Camps:
26th July - Base Camp (4410m) (33°45’41.7’’ N 77°30’06.3’’E)
29th July - C1 (4940m) (33°44’55.6’’ N 77°30’35.5’’E)
30th July - C2 (5180m) (33°44’46.3’’ N 77°31’05.0’’E)
1st August - Summit (6130m) (33°44’24.6’’ N 77°32’25.9’’E)
Support Staff: No HAP/HAF

Team

Kang Yatse-IV, North summit, 6130m, North Ridge on the foreground

Final section of the North Ridge

Traversing one of the gendermes on the North Ridge

On the Summit

Summit Selfie

Photo Courtesy: 2L1B