Kashmiri Climbers Reclaim History: Cefn Carnedd Peak climbed in Sonamarg After 79 Years

Zeeshan Mushtaq and Mohsin Farooq, two seasoned climbers from Kashmir bound by a shared love for the mountains, embarked on a whirlwind three-day adventure to climb two prominent peaks – Cefn Carnedd (4800m) and Umbrella Peak (4798m) of Kashmir, India. On July 9th, 2024, at around 10:30 AM, they reached the summit of Umbrella Peak. By 12:00 PM on the same day, they had also summited Cefn Carnedd. Both peaks are located between Glacier 2 and Glacier 3 of the Thajiwas range in Sonamarg, aptly named the "Meadow of Gold" in Kashmir, where vibrant meadows unfurl at the foot of snow-capped giants.

Umbrella Peak was first climbed in 1944 by Wilfred Noyce and Jones. Cefn Carnedd was first climbed in 1945 by John Buzzard and later in the same year by John Jackson, instructor of the Aircrew Mountain Centre at Sonamarg. Zeeshan and Mohsin recorded the first-ever Indian ascent of Cefn Carnedd.

Thajiwas range as seen from SGR-LEH highway

Expedition Note

Unearthing the Past:

Umbrella ( Chathari) and Cefn Carnedd ( High Cairn) are two prominent peaks in the Thajiwas range between Glacier 3 and Glacier 3.  Historical records revealed that Umbrella was first climbed in 1944 by Wilfred Noyce and Jones in Oct 1944 from Glacier 3. John Jackson used Amphitheatre Gully to ascend the top in 1945. Local climber Junaid Dar claimed to have reached the summit of Umbrella peak in 2014. Our friends Inayat and team ascended the Umbrella peak a few weeks ago.

Cefn Carnedd, lies north-west of Umbrella. The name itself seems out of place, with "cefn" meaning "ridge" in Welsh and “carnedd” meaning “ cairn”. It was first climbed in 1945 ascending Amphitheatre Gully, traversing Umbrella to the snow col between 2 peaks and then up to the snow to the summit. In 1945, John Jackson’s climb was the last recorded ascent of this particular peak. Beyond that, details are scarce. Motivated by a desire to rediscover this forgotten chapter, we spent months meticulously researching the area, poring over old maps before finally attempting to climb.

Our journey started from Sonamarg, the crisp mountain air fueling our excitement as we set off . The initial ascent was a gentle introduction, traversing through the valley bursting with glacial streams and wildflowers – a stark contrast to the imposing glaciers that awaited us higher up. Thin air became a constant companion, testing our endurance with every step. We had planned our campsite at 4000m near the snowy col just below the Umbrella peak. Approaching the camp from Glacier 3 side and as we were ascending, we found ourselves near the steep and hanging snout of the glacier and a gushing stream on one side. Drawing strength from our years of experience and unwavering camaraderie, we navigated the terrain with focused determination. Rather than climbing the steep snout, we crossed the stream and scrambled our way up towards a grassy landmass and pitched our tent. This was one of the hardest approaches to Base camp ever done by me.

Scrambling up to reach the glacier snout

Snout of Glacier 3

Next morning, 09th July, we scrambled up the rocky escarpments. Technical climbing skills came into play as we tackled sections that demanded focus and agility. We climbed some steep rock face and reached just below the conical Umbrella peak. The rock was stable and had some nice holds. After two grueling days of battling the elements, we finally stood triumphant on the summit of Umbrella peak. The world stretched out beneath us like a breathtaking tapestry.  Words seemed inadequate to capture the feeling of accomplishment that washed over us, a reward for our perseverance and a testament to the power of teamwork. Yet, our expedition wasn't complete.

Our route to reach the upper snow field just below the Conical Umbrella peak summit

Fueled by the exhilaration of our first summit and a thirst for more, we descended to a col at 4500m with renewed energy, setting our sights on the alluring peak of Cefn Carnedd- High Cairn (4800m). This peak lies immediately north-west of Umbrella, culminating in a flattened dome of Snow. This ascent was a different beast altogether. Finally, with grit and determination that refused to waver, we reached the summit of Cefn Carnedd.

Umbrella Peak as seen from snow field

This was the first indigenous summit of the peak and also it was ascended 79 years later. Cefn Carnedd was first climbed in 1945 by John Buzzard and later in the same year by John Jackson, instructor of the Aircrew Mountain Centre at Sonamarg. The summit by Jackson was the last recorded ascent of the peak and after almost 8 decades later we climbed the peak. The Himalayan Club's publication, A Climber's Guide to Sonamarg, Kashmir, contains details of a number of the climbs that instructors and pupils undertook. (HJ 13/09) / (AJ 1948). The altitude mentioned in the guidebook and what our Garmin watch showed varied. The GPS reading of Umbrella and Cefn Carnedd peak was 4720m and 4730m respectively.

Zeeshan and Ahsaan on the summit of Umbrella peak

From the summit, the panorama that unfolded before them was a fitting reward for their efforts. We had climbed not just two peaks, but also our own doubts and limitations. Descending the final slopes, we carried with us more than just memories. We had forged a deeper bond with the mountains, a newfound respect for their unforgiving beauty, and a heart brimming with the satisfaction of pushing our boundaries.

We descended back to our campsite from a different route, a wide and steep rocky gully that went down directly from the upper snow field to the glacier below. The same gully through which some two weeks back, our friends Inayat, Waseem and Shariq had climbed the Umbrella peak. They had called it a couloir and a new route to Umbrella peak but I really doubt that. As the Aircrew Mountain Centre was operational in Sonamarg for many years and they explored the nook and corner of the area, it seemed a direct approach to the upper snow field then to the summit of Umbrella.

On the third day, we packed everything and left towards Sonamarg. Again we descended from a different route from Amphitheatre Gully. It was a steep descent, mix of rock and snow and almost took us 3 hours from our camp to reach the valley floor.

Descending via Amphitheatre Gully

Our expedition was a reminder that with passion, dedication, and a dash of courage, even the most daunting peaks can be scaled. It wasn't just about reaching the summits; it was a testament to the rich mountaineering tradition and adventure history and a way to showcase the exceptional talent of local climbers.

This expedition is also a reminder of the immense potential for adventure tourism in Kashmir. With its diverse range of peaks, from beginner-friendly treks to challenging climbs, Sonamarg offers a playground for all levels of mountaineers. Responsible tourism practices that respect the local culture and environment are key to ensuring the sustainability of this thriving industry.