My success will help Nepal's tourism industry: Kami Rita Sherpa after 25th ascent on Everest

Kami Rita Sherpa, the oft-quoted Everest Man talks to Dream Wanderlust at the end of his much-talked-about 25th ascent on Everest. Straight from his Kathmandu home, the 51-year-old climbing guide, talks about his future plans in next Autumn.

He made his maiden ascent on Everest in 1994, along with multiple double-ascents in the year 2009, 2010, and 2019. Kami, as the leader of the rope-fixing team, climbed the world's tallest peak on May 7th, 2021.

We struck up a heart-to-heart conversation with Kami in regards to breaking his own records, and how that may benefit his motherland in creating a more sustainable tourism industry.  He broke the earlier record of Apa Sherpa (21 ascents to Everest) in 2018. Since then, Kami Rita has been breaking his own record with each year passing. To know more, read the full interview, scripted down below.

DW: Congratulations on breaking your own record once again. Are you back home?

Kami Rita: Yes. I am back in Kathmandu.

DW: In 2019, you told us, you would climb Everest at least 6 more times. Since then, you have climbed thrice. Twice in 2019, then again in 2021. How many times do you wish to climb Everest again?

Kami Rita: I am not sure now.

DW: In 2018, you broke Apa Sherpa's record by climbing Everest 22 times. Now you break your own record almost every year. What motivates you?

Kami Rita: I am one of the senior climbing guides. So many people want to climb with me. So, I believe I will do it for some more years.

I would like to clarify that I am not doing this for a record. I am doing this for climbers who come to Nepal with big dreams and spend their life-savings into making their dream come true. Getting them 100% success is my job. Every country knows how beautiful Nepal is. My success will develop our tourism industry as well.

DW: We respect your mindset. You first climbed Everest 27 years ago. In 1994. Since then, how much has Everest changed in your opinion due to climate change?

Kami Rita: Earlier, it was mostly snowy everywhere but right now it is mostly rocky due to all snow melting. So much change can be seen now because of global warming.

We used to climb a big rock at Hillary step. It took about 15 to 20 minutes there as it was so very difficult. Now, not anymore. During the 2015 earthquake, that patch of Hillary step was almost gone. It made things a little easier now.

DW: Where else do you see changes on the peak?

Kami Rita: Mostly throughout the the climb.

DW: In 2009, 2010, and 2019, you made double ascents on Everest each year. Will you do that again if given a chance?

Kami Rita: It can't be fixed so early on. I am not sure what the future beholds. This year I did it on May 7th with the rope-fixing team. It was the first summit of 2021.

DW: Besides Everest, you also climbed Cho Oyu 8 times, Manaslu 3 times, and K2 and Lhotse one time each. Do you plan on climbing these peaks again?

Kami Rita: Yes. Manaslu, next autumn.

DW: How about Cho Oyu?

Kami Rita: Not sure, yet.

DW: This year you led the rope-fixing team. How was it as a leader this time?

Kami Rita: I was not only with the rope-fixing team but also with the Bahraini and Indian Army team. I am very happy that I had a very strong team. We did the fixing from C4 to summit in a day.

DW: Great! How did you choose your team for fixing ?

Kami Rita: This year it was my company who chose the members of fixing team. This was not my first time though. I did it in 2009, 2010, 2012, and 2013 as well. That is why I could climb twice a year at times.

DW: A lot of unfit climbers come to Everest. Often in dire need of evacuation from higher camps, a lot of them die. What do you want to say to the future climbers who want to climb Everest? How do they prepare themselves both physically and mentally?

Kami Rita: Whoever wants to climb Everest should have enough experiences on relatively smaller peaks below and above 7000m. At least, some knowledge of hiking and trekking. Developing a little knowledge about the mountain also needs to be taken seriously. If possible, take up a training course in mountaineering.

DW: Great to have heard it from you. Apart from climbing, how are you spending time now?

Kami Rita: Now Nepal is under lockdown. So, I am resting.

DW: You told us in 2019 that you want to establish your own NGO for Nepalese people. Are you still pursuing that cause of social work?

Kami Rita: No, I am very busy with mountains. I have no time now but sometime in future, I hope.

DW: You are the country's living legend. So many young sherpas idolize you. What message for young Nepalese climbers do you have?

Kami Rita: Firstly, take good training. That makes a great guide.

DW: Thank you for your time. We wish you all the best for all your future endeavours.

Photo Courtesy: Kami Rita Sherpa