The "Snow Leopard" finally rests

Dream Wanderlust | Sept 23 , 2020


In a community where legends are not hard to come by, Ang Rita, a legend in his lifetime, passed away at 10.40am, Nepal time, at Jorpati, Kathmandu on 21st September, 2020. He was 72 and his long illness had affected his brain and liver, said his grieving grandson Phurba Tshering. His mortal remains were cremated in Kathmandu according to the Sherpa tradition.

He is the holder of two Guinness World Records, awarded in 2017.

The "first" person to summit Everest in Winter without supplemental oxygen, shall always remain an unbeatable feat. Renowned Spanish alpinist, Alex Txikon, who also tried to achieve the same title for last few years, i.e., to summit Everest in Winter without supplemental oxygen, told Dream Wanderlust, "I knew him personally and he was the best! It's a very sad day today."

He is also the only person to have summited Everest 10 times*, all without supplemental oxygen, a lung-boggling feat, yet unbeaten.

Born in Solukhumbu, the land of Sherpa legends, he started his 8k climbing career as a high-altitude worker in 1979 with the Spanish expedition to Dhaulagiri, where he summited by the North-East Ridge without the use of supplemental oxygen. This was his first 8k summit. Eight years later, on 22nd December, 1987, his winter ascent of Everest, without supplemental oxygen, cemented his place in the legends and the lore of climbing history.

As a recognition and appreciation of his skills, the climbing Sherpa community honoured him with the title of "Snow Leopard". As a fitting final tribute, his mortal remains, in a casket draped with the traditional "khada", lay at the Sherpa Gompha Monastery, where the fraternity paid their last respect.

Dream Wanderlust too wishes his soul eternal peace in his land of the eternal snows he trod in his lifetime.

His summits as collated from Himalayan Database follows,

Year/Season Peak/Route Team/Leader Designation Remark
1979 Spring Dhaulagiri via NE Ridge Spanish team led by Gregorio Ariz Martinez HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1980 Spring Dhaulagiri via NE Ridge International team led by Hans Von Kaenel HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1982 Spring Dhaulagiri via NE Ridge Belgian team led by Eduard Abts HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1983 Spring Everest via S Col-SE Ridge International team led by Gerhard Lenser HA Worker without supplemental oxygen*
1984 Spring Cho Oyu via West Ridge-West Face (Messner 1983 route) Czechoslovakian team led by Vera Komarkova Climbing Member without supplemental oxygen
1984 Autumn Everest via S Pillar (Up), SE Ridge-S Col (Down) Czechoslovakian team led by Frantisek Kele HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1985 Spring Everest via S Col-SE Ridge International team led by Arne Naess HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1986 Autumn Kangchenjunga via SW Face Spanish team led by Joan Hugas Maurici HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1987 Spring Cho Oyu via West Ridge-West Face from South Chilean team led by Mauricio Purto HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1987 Winter Everest via S Col-SE Ridge S Korean team led by Hahm Tak-Young Sirdar without supplemental oxygen
1988 Autumn Everest via S Col-SE Ridge International team led by Lluis Belvis Del Rio HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1990 Spring Everest via S Col-SE Ridge Nepalese team led by Chetra Bahadur Gurung Climbing Member without supplemental oxygen
1992 Spring Everest via S Col-SE Ridge Chilean team led by Mauricio Purto HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1993 Spring Everest via S Col-SE Ridge Spanish team led by Joso Feijoo HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1994 Autumn Cho Oyu via West Side from North French team led by Yves Salino HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1995 Spring Everest via N Col-NE Ridge Russian team led by Kazbek Khamitsayev HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1995 Autumn Cho Oyu via West Side from North French team led by Christian Peronne HA Worker without supplemental oxygen
1996 Spring Everest via S Pillar-South Col-SE Ridge (Up), S Col-Lhotse W Face (Down) Swedish team led by Goran Kropp HA Worker without supplemental oxygen

Photo Courtesy: BBC

* According to HDB, Ang Rita Sherpa used supplemental oxygen in 1983 Everest expedition.

This news was revised on 28-09-2020

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