On his much-talked-about 'last' Winter expedition, Denis Urubko, records no summit on Broad Peak, but thank heavens, he survived a near fatal avalanche that swept him about 100m down, followed by another 50m. With self-fixed ropes, uprooted by the avalanche, he considers himself fortunate, that he did not slide down inside the crevasse nearby.
He's back to the Base Camp (4840m) on 17th February, 2020. His partner, María 'Pipi' Cardell, shared his message (received on 17th February, 2020) with Dream Wanderlust, "Wind was 70-80km at the top. An avalanche slid me for 100mt, then I fall down with a broken fixed rope for 50m not into a crevase fortunately I fought despite everything. Is enough!" However, how he contemplates the entire series of events, is yet to be held an inquest.
Russian alpinist Denis Urubko made his final summit push on Broad Peak on 16th February, 2020. He planned to climb up to Camp-3 (7000m) from Base Camp (4840m) that day, followed by a direct summit push the day after, then a return to the Base Camp afterwards.
Urubko, along with Canadian climber Don Bowie and Finnish Lotta Hintsa, started this expedition on the last week of December 2019. The team previously reached upto Camp-3 (7000m) mostly due to the strenuous job that Denis and Don had put up in the mountain. Denis is also said to have solo-ed up to 7650m recently. On 8th February, 2020, Don (due to bronchial pneumonia) and Lotta left the expedition, making Denis the only climber to have the opportunity to summit Broad Peak this Winter; precisely within February, 2020.
On Everest, German alpinist Jost Kobusch is now at the Base Camp. Previously, he climbed up to camp-1 on the mountain. On 16th February, 2020, he shared his plan on his Facebook Page. He explored an optional route at the West shoulder. The route seems to be filled with a lot of hard blue ice and suitable for emergency descent. However, in this terrain, every mistake can lead to fatal results. Jost is on his Solo Everest Winter Expedition without supplemental oxygen by the West Ridge.
Spanish Alpinist Alex Txikon on an another expedition on Everest, is now at Camp-2. To climb to Camp-3 is highly risky due to the constant falling of stones from the West Face of Lhotse. He is planning to find a suitable itinerary to avoid the most exposed sections. Yesterday the team climbed about 1km to the left of the normal route and reached nearly 7000m.
He, along with his team, started their second phase of rotational climb on 14th February, 2020 having reached upto Camp-1. On 15th February, 2020, they reached Camp-2. From then the team is there. Meanwhile, on 17th February, 2020, one of his team members, Óscar Cardo, was airlifted from Camp-2 with symptoms of AMS, making the team with only 4 members now.
Photo Courtesy: Denis Urubko