Winter 2020: Still hope alive for Broad Peak & Everest

Dream Wanderlust | Feb 13 , 2020

Since Mingma G. Sherpa announced that he's abandoned his K2 Winter Expedition on 8th February, 2020, it seems like we have to wait another year to witness the first Winter summit of K2. Previously, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger cancelled their expedition on Gasherbrum I, after having survived a fatal crevasse-fall on 18th January, 2020 while climbing towards Camp-1.

However, hopes are still alive for Russian alpinist Denis Urubko, German alpinist Jost Kobusch, and Spanish Alpinist Alex Txikon. The Russian is now at the Base Camp of Broad Peak, waiting for a good weather window for his Solo attempt. His partners - Canadian Don Bowie and Finnish Lotta Hintsa already back to the civilization. A window is expected on 16th - 18th February, 2020.

Also Read: Alex Txikon Announces Winter Expedition to Annapurna 2024-25

Earlier, the team arrived at the Base Camp (4840m) on 27th December, 2019. Denis and Lotta fixed a deposit camp at 5100m on 28th December, 2019. On 2nd January, 2020 Denis and Don reached Camp-1 (5800m) and returned back to the Base Camp. Denis returned to Base Camp on 6th January, 2020, after spending a night at Camp-1. The team then spent a couple of nights at Camp-1 on 8th and 9th January, 2020. On 9th, Don and Denis fixed rope up to 6100m. On the next day, 10th January, 2020, the duo established the Camp-2 (6200m), later, together with Lotta, they returned to the Base Camp. On 16th January, 2020, they climbed up again till Camp-1 and spent the night there and the next day, on 17th, they climbed up to Camp-2 and stayed there. On 18th January, 2020, Don and Denis fixed rope up to 6700m and the team stayed at Camp-2. On 19th January, 2020, the team returned back to Base Camp. On 23rd January, 2020, Don and Denis climbed up from Base Camp to 6800m but later, the duo was forced back to the Base Camp again due to hurricane. On 29th January, 2020, Don, Denis, and Lotta climbed up to Camp-2 from Base Camp and stayed the night there. On 30th January, 2020, Don and Denis fixed rope up to 6950m and the team stayed at Camp-2. On 31st January, 2020, the weather turned bad and Don and Lotta stayed the night at 6600m and Denis at Camp-3(7000m). On 1st February, 2020, Denis climbed up Solo up to 7650m and returned to Camp-3 due to the danger of crevasses up above. The whole team returned to Base Camp on 2nd February, 2020. On 5th February, 2020, Don and Denis climbed up again to Camp-2 from Base Camp. The next day, the duo reached Camp-3 and spent the night there. Don got sick due to his lung issues (bronchial pneumonia) and the next day they returned to Base Camp. On 8th February, 2020, Don and Lotta left the Base Camp of Broad Peak quitting their expedition.

Denis Urubko at the Base Camp of Broad Peak

On Everest, Jost Kobusch and Alex Txikon, who are on two different expeditions this Winter, are also looking out for a good weather window to climb again. On 11th February, 2020, Everest Base Camp was less windy (20km/h and up to 60km/h wind gust). On 12th February, 2020, wind gust reached up to 89km/h.

Jost Kobusch, who is on his Solo Everest Winter Expedition without supplemental oxygen by the West Ridge, already reached up to Camp-1(6000m) previously. He climbed up again on 12th February, 2020 and according to his tracker he reached beyond Camp-1. Although his last tracking information shows that he was at Camp-1 at 4:15pm (12th February), it is unknown whether he stayed at Camp-1 or returned back to Base Camp.

Snap taken from the tracker of Jost Kobusch on 12th February around midnight (Indian Time)

Alex Txikon, who is on his Everest Winter Expedition without supplemental oxygen from Nepal Side, already with his Sherpa team he reached up to 6500m, just over Camp-2(6457m) previously. He previously announced to climb up again on 12th or 13th February, 2020. But due to the increase in wind speed at Base Camp, he decided to wait for the time being.