Winter Annapurna exclusive:Txikon speaks before reaching BC
The Basque alpinist Alex Txikon and Italian climber Mattia Conte are on their ambitious expedition on Annapurna this winter. The team reached the Base camp on 22nd December, 2023. With six Sherpas, Chhepal, Ang Gyalu, Passan Nurbu, Magkpa, Mig Temba, Lakpa, and Pemba, currently they have managed to climb the route up to C3 (6,400m). Before reaching the Base Camp Alex gives an exclusive interview with us and talks about his team, plan, and climbing style.
At the Base Camp
Interview with Alex Txikon
DW: We are excited to hear about your Winter Annapurna expedition.
Why Annapurna and not another attempt at Everest in winter?
Alex: Your first question about why Anapurnna and not Everest again. Because after our success on Manaslu, we know exactly what it takes to climb these high peaks in winter. But we will not attempt the higher 8K peaks But try the lower 8K peaks. But of course, Anapurna is not an easy mountain. But I think it is the time for Anapurna.
DW: You are familiar with Everest in winter, but Annapurna in winter is unknown territory for you.
So do you have plans to go all out for the summit , or will you treat it as a preliminary recce?
Alex: For me, it's a super nice question. Though I climbed Annapurna 14 years ago in April 2010. It's a different mountain, a different terrain, and it's an unknown entity for me in winter. But let's see what we can do. Of course, the main goal is to enjoy the moment and go home safely. We will go step by step. I don't want to see or plan anything further than the next day. So I have to be very clever about the strategy and the logistics if we have to get any chance. So we plan to acclimatize properly and slowly, see what we are able to do.
Alex Txikon at Camp-1
DW: Annapurna in spring is reputedly infamous for avalanches.
Do you think that in winter the snow conditions would be safer ?
Alex: Yes, even in spring Anapurna has a reputation for its infamous avalanches. But in winter when the temperature goes down to -30 to -45 degrees C the ice can explode during the morning hours or in the evening chill and it can be quite dangerous. We will also have to avoid the Serac avalanches. Right now the snow conditions are perfect because there has not been much precipitation so there is not too much snow and we will have to see what we are able to do. It's still an unknown territory and if there is bigger snowfall over the next few days we will have to spend 15 days sitting at base camp waiting for it to settle. Normally I think we will go and see what the conditions are and take it slowly from there but without any pressure. We never feel any pressure but there is definitely some tension and tension is good. Let's see what we can do.
DW: You adopt the Alpine style, sans supplementary oxygen, sans pre established camps and Sherpa support to fix ropes.
Will you be doing it the same way this time too, and what logistical problems do you foresee with this climb carry climb method.
Alex: About the style, We will use a safe style. Honestly, that is the best style that we can do now. We will not use oxygen or fixed lines, but we will use the sherpas during the ascent in the same way like we did in Manaslu. We didn't use supplementary oxygen and we did fixed ropes only for the most dangerous places or for our down climb and that we will use here also. Maybe because that is a safety tactic. We will try and do as best as we can. But on Annapurna there are usually so few winter ascents, and Anapuna, I think, has only seen one winter ascent, one summit during the real astronomical winter. So though we take care of the style, we'll keep it the alpine way, but also keep it as safe as possible, because in Manaslu we did great, We had only fixed 800 meters of rope, unlike what they do during the spring season on Manaslu, where they fix 5km of rope.
Alex Txikon
DW: We are given to understand that you have five Sherpas from the Seven Summit Treks on your team.
Will they be opening routes and fixing ropes, or will they just be in a support role of ferrying loads and manning camps?
Alex: Mattia Conte is with us, and we are a group of eight with six sherpas. The Sherpas are Chapal, Lakpa, Gelu, Mila, Temba, and Lakpa. So that makes eight of us. So we are a group of eight, and we are very happy and proud of each other.
DW: You also have Mattia Conte with you.
Will he be with you on Annapurna too?
Have the two of you climbed together on any other major peak prior to this one?
Alex: No, we have not climbed together on any other major peak before this. But we both have experience from the past. And as I told you, we'll go very slowly without feeling any pressure. We'll just try to do our best. That is our aim and only that. I agree that we will keep this expedition as clean as possible and enjoy the moment. And yes, Mattia was on winter k2 and we will use his experience. He's very strong physically. He had a good aptitude during his acclimatization. But slowly the mountain will put all of us to our limits. So we'll have to see what we can do. But it doesn't matter. We don't care what we have done in the past. What really matters is what we are going to do here. So I'm excited and happy because all of us are here, this team. And believe me, slowly we are going once again.
DW: You have, in 2020, bailed out of Everest in winter and Conte aborted his attempt on K2 in 2019
So this time, if it actually is a two-man team, what role do you see each of you play?
Alex: Think Anapurna is totally different in spring or autumn than in winter. I think Annapurna is totally different in spring or autumn and in winter. And I think we need to take a lot of care every day. Every single thing that we do has to be as safe as can, in fact, as safest as we can. And we are not going with any pressure. We are not going with any expectation because we know that maybe we cannot do anything. So our expectation is just to enjoy.
DW: Annapurna in spring is dangerous enough, and in winter even more so.
Though it’s a silly question and it does not really matter, but what do you think are your realistic chances of topping out.
Alex: About our realistic chances, I think once we reach the base camp and we fix and make a rotation, I will be able to let you know about that. Real chances, I think we have a little bit more than Manaslu. But you never know what will happen. So let us see.
DW: May you and your team have a great and safe climb and looking forward to hearing from you again after you get back.
Alex: Thank you.
Image courtesy: Team Alex Txikon
