Changabang 4 (hopefully the last)

"He" is back.Team fine. Good news.All is well.
"We climb on the shoulders of our predecessors", is a philosophy believed by all "mountaineers". Which means that the knowledge gained from past expeditions, helps future climbers. This landmark expedition will surely also help future teams , for the valuable information gained.

MAJOR INFORMATIONS GAINED:
* the route may be longer than you think it is,inspite of what your contour map says
* so you may need more camps than you had planned for
* there are rocks on the route
* these rocks may fall on you
* you may take 7/8 days from Base Camp to Bagini Col

MINOR INFORMATIONS GAINED:
* famous mountaineers can get special permission to enter Nanda Devi Sanctuary restricted areas
* from Rhamani glacier to Changabang glacier across Shipton's Col is an easy route,you just need a few more camps
* the "West Wall" is a waste of time (Boardman and Tasker took 30 days from BC to Summit)
* no new news about "East Ridge" route ( Bonningtons team took 25 days from BC to Summit)
* the leader should not depend on other members to do useful homework
* the other members should not depend in leader to do useful homework
* after about 10 days at BC you will need at least 10 mules to bring down your stuff
* you will need 14 members, 6 sherpas and 2 cooks to gather these information
* you will need approx10 to 12 lakh Rupees for a 3 week trip like this
* you cannot go without sherpas,but remember they are not suicidal fools

A FEW AFTERTHOUGHTS:
* This December will be the sixth year of Col. Balwant Sandhu's untimely death,after being hit by a car outside IMF New Delhi.In the1974 Indo British Expedition to Changabang,he was the Joint Leader and summitter,of this,till then virgin, peak.
* After hearing Boardman and Tasker's plan on the "West Wall" , Bonnington said,"it's a preposterous plan.Still, if you do get up it, I think it'll be the hardest thing that's been done in the Himalayas".
*After a season of tragedies and scandals,this expedition also turned out to be a non-fatal tragedy/comedy(viewer's choice).
* Hoping next season brings some good news of meaningful climbs,not necessarily successful ascents

Rupak Bhattacharya

Doctor

rupakb55@gmail.com

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